Tread in Pure Land #3 (Berkelana ke Saudi Arabia, English Version)

Catatan Berkala
10 min readDec 5, 2022

Around 01:00 am (night) we arrived in Mecca. The hotel that we live in the distance of 500 meters from the Haram, had to walk quite far since play caused Haram expansion project to make access to many mosques were closed. After check-in at the hotel that evening we together walk towards the Haram. Although it has a morning, but the atmosphere around the Haram still crowded with pilgrims passing away and go home. There were still dressed Ihram, some are already wearing ordinary clothes.

My feelings thrilled to enter the Grand Mosque complex, because soon I will see for themselves (Ka’bah) the temple who had only seen the picture only. The first building that greets us is building the Makkah Royal Clock Tower right in front of the Grand Mosque. This building centipede second in the world after Burj Dubai (height of about 600 meters). The tower contains a number of hotels, shopping malls that offer worldly pleasures and luxury shopping.

At the top there is a giant clock as the reference time in Arabia (functions such as Big-Ben clock tower in London). It does not seem there are beautiful buildings that implies hedonism are in front of the Haram, a stark contrast to the tranquility of pilgrims performing ritual prayers, Umrah, and sa’iy in front of him. I still can not understand why the King of Saudi Arabia there is a building permit nuanced Las Vegas is right in front of the Grand Mosque.

Our group walked into the Haram. Courtyard of the mosque is very wide, but comfort is rather disturbed because of the roar of the engine and crane towering towers here and there as part of the expansion project Haram. Many pilgrims in the courtyard of the mosque sitting, sleeping, or praying, but when it was time show 02:00 am.

We entered the King Fahd door and walked inside. Because we do not pray Maghrib and Isha, then we pray jama used in the mosque area. Building Haram has many entrances. We have to remember that we have entered the door so as not to get lost. Jama prayer finished, we walked up to the Ka’bah. and the buildings that appeared to be the center of prayer Muslims around the world. My feeling erratic, mixed between excited, thrilled and unnerved. Allah is the Greatest!

After executing thawaf, we pray circumcision two cycles behind Maqam Ibrahim. Maqam Ibrahim is not a grave, but in the form of foot prints of Abraham where he rests when building the Ka’bah. Ka’bah was built by Abraham and his son Ishmael, as commanded by God to build His House in the House. After praying circumcision, we drink the zam-zam water that barrels (gallons) mosques scattered throughout the area, just like in the Prophet’s Mosque.

The next pilgrimage procession is carrying out sa’iy, namely jogged between the hills Safa and Marwah hills. The second hill is located near the temple building, but now no longer exists since the Haram undergo massive expansion. There is only a sign of the place alone, and between Al-Safa and Al-Marwah hills was built places of worship sa’iy implement. So, where do sa’iy currently in the Haram compound.

After doing sa’iy, then the circuit is closed to perform Umrah with tahalul, namely cutting some hair. Because the hair cut that time to be of non-family so my mother asked shes friend cut up my hair, just a little about 3 pieces only. then it was over all a series of pilgrimage just before the dawn call to prayer rang out, and since then the restrictions during berihram be no longer valid.

Jamaat has been allowed to wear regular clothes. Our first morning prayers at Haram Masjdiil, then return to the hotel to change clothes and sleep. The series of pilgrimage since the departure of Medina is very tiring and we lack sleep. We asked coaches to sleep long enough to eliminate fatigue. Later during the day we are getting back to prayers Dhuhr and see the atmosphere of the Grand Mosque during the day.

During the day we can see the Haram clearer and brighter, including the scenery around him. The central point of the building is certainly Haram is the ka’bah cuboid and cloaked in black cloth called kiswah. This is the mecca of the central prayers of Muslims worldwide. If in Indonesia we pray facing towards the west and oblique slightly to the right, then in the Haram that we can face any direction as long as facing the Ka’bah.

Ka’bah is never empty of pilgrims and worshipers tawaf prayer. When we were praying near the temple might be ahead of us passing pilgrims who walked perform tawaf. All moving in the same direction produces a rhythm that can not be described with words. Crane-crane expansion project appear to emerge from outside the mosque as if observing the pilgrims performing tawaf.

We recommended in the Haram often carry tawaf, not only in the procession Umrah alone. While in Makkah, Alhamdulillah. I have been three times doing tawaf, either before or after the obligatory prayers. Doing thawaf seven rounds takes 30 minutes to 40 minutes, depending on whether or not dense crowd in front of the temple.

Ahead of the start of the obligatory prayers, the warriors and officers Haram called on worshipers to stop thawafnya because prayer is fard or obligatory prayers will begin. After completion of the prayer, we can continue tawaf round the rest.

There is one point in the ka’bah that became a bone of contention worshipers to touch and kiss her. That is the Hajar Aswad (Black stone). The stone that is believed to come from heaven that always dreamed of pilgrims to simply hold or kiss it. At first the stone is white, but because of the sins of mankind then it turned black.

Through Ibn Abbas RA, he said that the Prophet Muhammad sallallaahu ‘alaihi wa sallam said, Hajar aswad down from heaven when the stone is so white whiter than milk. Sins of men that makes the black stone (HR. Tirmidhi no. 877. Saheeh according to Shaykh Al Albani)

Through Ibn Abbas radi Anhuma, he said that the Rasulullah Sallallaahu ‘alaihi wa sallam said, Hajar aswad is a stone of heaven. The stone is whiter than snow. Sins of idolaters who make it black (HR. Ahmad 1: 307)

Why do we Muslims are encouraged to kiss the stone even though he does not bring benefits and dangers of anything? The answer is because he also never kiss him, then his followers to imitate it by contributing to kiss her too well.

Through ‘Abis bin Robi’ah, he said, I saw Umar (bin Al Khottob) kissed Hajar Aswad. Then Umar said, Verily I kiss you and I know that you are a stone. Had I not seen the Prophet Muhammad sallallaahu ‘alaihi wa sallam kissed you, then of course I will not kiss (HR. Bukhari no. 1597, 1605 and Muslim no. 1270).

Hajar Aswad (Black Stone) is located at the corner of the temple. To reach the rock truly extraordinary struggle. All worshipers scrambling for a hold or kiss it. Some are successful and some are failing, but largely failed to achieve it. Many have already almost reached the rock, but then again his body thrown out due to the strong encouragement of pilgrims from Turkey and Egypt that its agencies were large.

I have several times tried to approach the Black Stone, but always fails because it does not withstand the urge pilgrims jostling. But my father told me to pray alone while bershalawat God willing could, according to him. And when it was nearing 1 meter to Hajar aswad suddenly came three people from my side, his face is familiar.

They are from Indonesia, they help me in the future Hajar aswad like escorting me and finally I could smell it. After we out of the crowd said “That was a Ojek” (Helping people like that). We have to pay. Once asked and bargain them to charge 12 riyals each, their origin from Amuntai, Borneo. They are be in here not like us (umrah) but they work means ​​TKI.

One scene may have never imagined happened a few years ago is the phenomenon of pilgrims take pictures in front of the ka’bah First, to my knowledge, bring a camera into the Haram mosque is prohibited, let alone photographing or take pictures in front of the temple.

The warriors who served in the Haram will seize our camera and will never give it back again. But this time, since fused with a Handphone camera, then the ban was now loose. The congregation looks selfie photographing or shooting each other with a Handphone camera.

All around the courtyard of the Grand Mosque are vast and still continue to be built with a backdrop of towering hotels. King of Saudi Arabia as a waiter two holy cities continue to expand the Grand Mosque to accommodate pilgrims and Umrah are always increasing every year. Pilgrims who could not enter the temple approach is usually enough content to pray in the courtyard of this. Most pilgrims women who choose to pray in the courtyard outside the Grand Mosque Haram.

Every prayer time arrives, worshipers streamed into the Haram mosque compound. If we come half an hour before the call to prayer, then do not expect us to enter the Haram. Courtyard of the mosque is full with people. So, if in the courtyard of the mosque there is no place, pilgrims were content to pray on the sidewalk on the side of the road or sidewalk in front of shops. Each adzan, shopkeepers in Mecca closed his shop, so no more passing shoppers, and pilgrims can pray tennang in the lobby or on the sidewalk in front of the store.

It felt five days in the city of Mecca is still lacking, are still not satisfied to worship at the Haram. Eager to always be there, I’tiikaf, prayer, tawaf, sa’iy, and others. However, since this system umrah package, then there is always a tour event pilgrimage towards historic places.

During the day we visited many places in the city of Mecca and its surroundings. The first place we visited was Jabal Tsur, about 6 km from the city of Mecca. Jabal Tsur is a hill on which there is a cave. This is where the Prophet was hiding in a cave with his friend, Abu Bakr, from the pursuit of young men of Quraysh.

When the youth of Quraysh reached the hill, Allah revealed His help. The mouth of the cave was covered in cobwebs and nearby there is a nest of pigeons. The youths of Quraysh thought that there might be Prophet in the cave, because if people go into it definitely devastated the cobwebs. So, congratulations Rasululullah and his companions from the pursuit of the Quraysh.

Jabal Tsur we only stopped briefly to take pictures of the bottom of the hill. The next trip to the place of pilgrimage tourism standing at Arafat. Padang Arafah not currently barren again, many trees were planted there. The trees can never be high, may indeed be so kind. Padang Arafah in a tree, called the Tree of Sukarno, because once he planting a few trees there.

Near Padang Arafah there is a hill very famous, namely Jabal Rahmah. This is the hill believed to be the meeting place of Adam and Eve (Hawa) separated for hundreds of years after being forced from Heaven as a result of eating the forbidden fruit. Jabal Rahmah located near the Plain of Arafat. On top of this hill there is a monument to commemorate the meeting of Adam and Hawa.

Jabal Rahmah climb is not too difficult. I and my father did not go up, we only see the course we’ve exhausted. Unlike my mother excited, he rides with shes friends. Understandably this rock and many places to stand when climbing. If you want more secure, pilgrims can go up the stairs that have been made by the Government of Saudi Arabia. The stairs leading to Jabal Rahmah is located on the east side. The spirit of Umrah pilgrims to climb the hill is incredible, incessant flow of pilgrims climb this hill.

The day before returning to indonesia, pilgrims roads to the city of Jeddah to buy souvenirs that are still lacking. The journey from Mecca to Jeddah is only about two hours. Jeddah city is the port city because it is situated on the seafront. Here too there is an international airport for the arrival of pilgrims. Throughout the journey from Makkah to Jeddah we were treated to dry and barren landscape. Once in a while we see the tribal Bedouin tents and camels.

Hajj or Umrah pilgrims residing in Jeddah certainly not forget to visit the floating mosque. On the way towards the Jeddah airport, we took time to pray Fajr in floating mosque. The mosque, which is located on the edge of the Red Sea is not actually floating, only a portion of the body of the mosque is located above the sea. However the mosque was poorly maintained, the toilet seemed less cleaned, the smell of urine everywhere.

Finally, umrah trip to the Pure Land must end. It hurt while performing tawaf farewell tawaf wada or overnight before we leave for Jeddah. I’ll dissever with Haram Mosque. When the prayer at the end of thawaf wada, ask that in the future one day we are given the opportunity to visit the Baitullah and the Prophet’s Mosque back.

Arriving at Jeddah airport, I mused. Hopefully I can get back to the Holy Land a few years later. It feels can not wait to get back to the Holy Land. It feels so briefly Umrah trip. In fact, just a few days I was in the homeland, I feel nostalgic and longing to return there. The plane was waiting on the runway. One by one the Umrah pilgrims entered the fuselage. No sobs or tears, there is a feeling of happiness because it was a visit to the Holy Land to carry out the pilgrimage.

Goodbye Mecca and Medina, hopefully we can visit you back someday. (Completed)

Sorry if some test so difficult to understand, because my grammar is so bad

January 30, 2016

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